7the knob allows us to rack focus between twodifferently spaced subjects.iii. The lens has a good image stabilizer that can be controlled by touching[FUNC] then scrolling down to [IMAGE STABILIZER]. Dynamicmode is for walking-and-shooting while Normal is for static shots.Note: Press and hold the physical button “Powered IS” (located on the LCDflip out) while zoomed in to get a rock-steady image stabilization.iv. The viewfinder must be pulled out to be active. It has a lever formagnification adjustment, allowing closer or more distant viewing.*Using this instead of the LCD can really extend battery life and helpswhen working in bright sunlight.F) Audio Levels:To set input levels, touch [FUNC] then touch [Mic Level]. Now chooseManual Mode. When using manual, touch the arrows [<] [>] to increase ordecrease the input level from the mic. Auto Mode uses a compressor that ends upincreasing the background noise floor. I recommend using Manual Mode.i. Think of the meter as displaying how much room you have in volumebefore the audio distorts. The closer you get to 0dB, the louder youraudio will be. Try to keep it around -12, only momentarilygetting higher (into the yellow bars) on the loudest parts of yourscene. Use the meter. Trust it, but above all, use your ears (which arein your headphones, of course). In general, you want to keep youraudio meter lit around half-way. Any less could be too thin soundinglater; too much more and it will get close to distorting and becomeunusable.ii. The camera has a decent stereo mic onboard, but if you’re using anexternal mic, (the only way to control your sound) you’ll need toensure that mic has a new battery inside (condenser mics need power)and then connect the mic to the BeachTek DXA-2T XLR adapter. Screwthe BeachTek into the camera’s tripod mount and then mount a tripodbeneath the BeachTek, if you’re using one. Once you’ve mounted theBeachTek with the volume knobs at the rear of the camera, do thefollowing:continued on next page . . .