16Turn crankshaft to be sure there is no binding betweenbearing surfaces and journals. Replace oil screen, bottom coverplate, valve plates and cylinder heads.Motor RemovalMOTOR END BELL — Remove motor end bell carefully toprevent damage to the stator. Use three 7/16 - 14- x 5-in. studsfor guides and support. Inspect suction strainer in end bell.Clean it with solvent or replace if broken or corroded.REMOVE ROTOR — Bend rotor lock washer tab backwardand remove rotor lock bolt. If crankshaft turns, preventing lockbolt from being loosened, remove a cylinder head and valveplate and place a rubber plug (06R suction plug) on top of onepiston (Fig. 20). Replace valve plate assembly and cylinderhead (only 2 bolts required to hold cylinder head in place). Pro-ceed to remove rotor lock bolt, lock washer and plate washer.Use a jackscrew to remove rotor (Fig. 20). Insert a brassplug into rotor hole to protect end of crankshaft from jack-screw. Support rotor while it is being removed to prevent statordamage. Remove ring spacer between rotor and crankshaft(if used).Clean rotor thoroughly with solvent. If stator is to bereplaced, a matching rotor must be used.REMOVE STATOR (Fig. 21) — Stator is a slip fit in motorhousing. It is held in place by both an axial key and a lockingassembly consisting of an acorn nut, locking pin, motor lockbushing and a washer (see Fig. 21). Remove acorn nut andwasher. Back out locking pin and bushing and slide stator out.Axial key positions stator and crankcase. If necessary, heatcrankcase motor housing (not over 20 to 30 F above statortemperature).Check stator for damage to windings and lead wires. Use amegohmmeter to check for grounds or shorts betweenwindings.Motor ReplacementSTATOR AND ROTOR — Install stator halfway into hous-ing. Insert the terminal leads first, guiding them to terminalplate opening as stator is being inserted.Replace ring spacer (Fig. 11, item 21) on crankshaft. Easerotor onto shaft until it begins to feel snug. Insert rotor key, andpush rotor the remainder of the way on shaft. Replace rotorlock bolt with lockwasher and plate washer.Push stator into housing until it lines up correctly with rotor(Fig. 22).Line up keyways in stator and crankcase and replace statorlocking assembly, then drive key into keyway and stake overkeyway in stator to secure key. When a new motor is beinginstalled, the stator must be drilled and a new locking pin andmotor lock bushing used (see Fig. 23 and instructions).Connect stator leads to proper terminals on terminal plate.Refasten terminal plate and junction box to compressor.Replace motor end bell using studs for support. Remove rubberplug (if used) from piston head. Replace valve plate assembly,cylinder head, and terminal plate assembly. Torque 12 boltsholding terminal plate to crankcase at 30 to 40 lb-ft.Do not push stator in completely until rotor is in place.DOWELHOLESDOWELHOLESDOWELS INCYLINDER DECKFOR SUCTIONVALVE AND BACKERSUCTIONVALVEBACKERPLACE AGAINSTCYLINDER DECK,UNDER SUCTION VALVETOP VIEW OF PISTONIN CYLINDERFig. 19 — Piston, Suction Valve andBacker PositionsVALVE PLATERUBBER PLUGSTATOR LOCKINGASSEMBLYSTATORROTORROTOR LOCK BOLTJACKSCREWLOCKING PIN BOSSSTATORKEYACORNNUTWASHER LOCKING PINMOTOR LOCKBUSHINGFig. 20 — Removing RotorFig. 21 — Removing Stator