17Parting Off1. Use parting tool.2. Adjust lathe speed to lower RPM for partingthrough a workpiece.3. Place tool on tool support and raise the handleuntil it starts to cut and continue to cut towardthe center of the workpiece.4. Loosely hold on to the piece in one hand as itseparates from the waste wood.Sanding and FinishingLeaving clean cuts will reduce the amount ofsanding required. Move the tool support out of theway, adjust the lathe to a low speed, and beginwith fine sandpaper (120 grit or finer). Coarsersandpaper will leave deep scratches that aredifficult to remove, and dull crisp details on thespindle. Progress through each grit withoutskipping grits (for example, do not jump from 120grit to 220 grit). Fold the sandpaper into a pad; donot wrap sandpaper around your fingers or theworkpiece.To apply a finish, the workpiece can beleft on the lathe.Turn off the lathe and use a brush or paper towel toapply the finish. Remove excess finish beforerestarting lathe. Allow to dry and sand again with320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Apply second coat offinish and buff.11.4 Face Plate and Bowl TurningMounting StockUse of a face plate is the most common method forholding a block of wood for turning bowls andplates:1. Select stock at least 1/8" to 1/4" larger thaneach dimension on the finished workpiece.2. Always select the largest diameter face platethat can be used for the workpiece to beturned.3. True one surface of the workpiece formounting against the face plate.4. Using the face plate as a template, mark thelocation of the mounting holes on theworkpiece, and drill pilot holes of theappropriate size. Face plates are drilled for No.12 screws. (Phillips and square drive screwswill hold up better than slotted screws. Sheetmetal screws are case hardened with deeperand sharper threads than wood screws.)If the mounting screws on the face plate interferewith the workpiece, a glue or waste block can beused:5. Make a block the same diameter as the faceplate, Figure 26. Both waste block andworkpiece should have flat surfaces for gluing.6. Glue the block to the workpiece. Avoid usingbrown paper or newspaper between the wasteblock and workpiece. It may work fine if youare using scrapers, but a slight catch with abowl gouge can separate the two.Figure 26NOTE: When using a waste block, be careful withthe adhesive you select. Dry workpieces can bebonded with ordinary white or yellow glue but mustbe clamped to ensure a good bond. Greenworkpieces require cyanoacrylate type glue.Faceplate or Chuck?While faceplates are the simplest, most reliablemethod of holding a block of wood for turning,chucks can also be used. As there are dozens ofchucks to choose from, the woodturner should firstconsider all the different types of turning that will bedone, and read reports or discuss with otherturners who own chucks before making a decision.A chuck is not a requirement, but is handy whenworking on more than one piece at a time. Ratherthan removing screws, you simply open the chuckand change workpieces.The most popular ones are four jaw scroll chuckswith a variety of jaws to accommodate differentsize tenons. Most also come with a screw chuck aswell.Wood SelectionFirewood is the cheapest, most widely availablestock to use while learning to turn bowls. Simplywaste wood for a while practicing turningtechniques. Develop skill with each tool beforeattempting to make a finished piece. It is best tostart with dry wood, without worrying about dryingor distortion. Once turning becomes comfortable,try green wood which cuts very easily. As theturner gains experience, he or she will findextraordinary grain and figure in the form of burls,crotches and bark inclusions.