United States Stove Wonderluxe B2350B Owner's Manual
MASONRY CHIMNEYMasonry Chimneys have several positiveattributes: If properly built, they are quitedurable, and most homeowners considerthem more attractive perhaps than a non-enclosed factory built chimney. And, ifthe chimney is located within the confinesof the house (that is, not attached to anexterior wall), its mass alone will store heatlonger and continue to release the heatlong after the fire has died. Masonry chim-neys have many disadvantages though.Masonry chimneys constructed on anexterior wall are exposed to cold outdoortemperatures, promoting greater heaterloss, higher accumulations of creosote,and reduced draft which leads to poorerheater or furnace performance.When considering a masonry chimney,round tiles are preferable to square orrectangular, as round tiles have muchbetter airflow characteristics and are fareasier to clean. Unfortunately, most NorthAmerican chimneys use square or rectan-gular tile liners that are really designed foropen fireplaces, not stoves or furnaces. Ofmost importance, second only to overallchimney height, is the diameter of the flueliner itself. In most instances, it should besized to the appliance; i.e., 6” flue outleton the appliance requires a 6” flue. Theinner diameter should never be less thanthe flue outlet diameter and should neverbe greater than 50% of the applianceflue outlet. For example, do not expect awood burning stove or furnace to functionproperly if installed into a chimney with aflue liner greater than 50% the applianceoutlet -- such as a 6” flue outlet requiresa 6” diameter for optimum drafting, butcan function well with an 8”, but becomesborderline beyond 8” diameter.Masonry chimneys built of concrete blockswithout flue liners of at least 5/8” fireclaydo not meet modern building codes. Asolid fuel appliance must not be joinedto a chimney flue which is connected toanother appliance burning other fuels.If your chimney has a typically oversizedflue liner of 8x12 inches or greater, or if it isunlined, it will be necessary for you to relinethe chimney, using many of the modernapproved and economical methods suchas stainless steel, castable refractory, orproperly sized fireclay linings.If you have any question regarding vent-ing your appliance, feel free to contactthe factory at the address and phonenumber on this Owner’s Manual. You mayalso contact NFPA (National Fire ProtectionAssociation) and request NFPA Standard211 (1984 Edition). Their address is BatteryMarch Park, Quincy, Massachusetts 02269.Another helpful publication is NFPA Stan-dard 908, available at the same address.Specify 1984 Edition on either of the abovepublications.bULLETINE RC454 continued...In the unlikely event that your heater “overfires”(a condition evidenced by elbows, stove pipes,and connectors glowing red in appearance orotherwise discoloring), then your installationis subject to excessive draft created by eithera chimney too tall or too great in diameter inconjunction with its height, or some other factorof an indeterminate cause. In this event, youshould install a barometric draft regulator. Suchinstallation will preclude any over-firing and/or any hazardous consequences of potentialoverfiring.Barometric draft regulators are generally avail-able where you purchased your stove or maybe ordered directly from United States StoveCompany at a nominal charge.DR6 - 6” DRAFT REgULATOR - OpTIONAL KITto a near closed position - but leave the ashpit damper at least partially open to preventthe fire from going out. Adjust the stove pipedamper to reduce the draft on the fire. With an-thracite there will be short blue flames abovethe coal, except when the fire is started or anew charge is added. If, however, there is noflame then the fire needs more air from the bot-tom (unless it is near the end of its burn cycleand needs to be recharged).Only when the coal is burned down to half itsoriginal depth it is time to add fresh coal. Whendoing so, open the stove pipe damper and turnthe thermostat damper to high, which will al-low the fire to burn off any accumulated gases.Open the feed door, and with a small rake,hoe, or hooked poker pull the glowing coalsto the front of the firebox. Try not to disturbthe fire too much. Next, add a fresh chargeto the back being careful not to seal off thetop. Close the feed door, but leave the spindamper (or thermostat) open for a few minutesuntil the volatile gases have burned off. It is notnecessary to shake down the ashes each timeyou refuel the furnace. Experience will be yourbest teacher.BANKING THE FIRE:For extended operation, such as overnight, thefire will need to be banked. To do so heap coalup along the sides and back of the firebox sothat the fire gradually burns it over a longerperiod of time. The intensity of the fire will alsobe reduced without letting it go out. Follow thesame procedure as for refueling. If possible,avoid shaking, as a heavier layer of ash willhelp reduce the intensity of the fire during thistime. After loading, let the fire establish itself forabout 30 minutes. Then close your damper andautomatic control to the point where the housedoes not become too cold. It is important thatyou begin banking early enough before retiringor leaving that you can make necessary adjust-ments after the fire is well established.To revive a coal fire that is almost out, (1) openthe ash door and stove pipe damper and closethe spin damper under the door to get a gooddraft through the grate. (2) place a thin layer ofdry coal over the entire top of the fire. DO NOTPOKE OR SHAKE THE FIRE AT THIS TIME! (3) afterthe fresh coal has become well ignited shakethe grate (just a little), refuel.916b36TK - THERMODISC KIT FOR b36 bLOWER - OpTIONALWish your blower would turn ON and OFF asthe heater gets warm and cold? It can withthis optional kit from U.S. Stove. It connects inline with your power supply cord and mountsto the back of the heater. When the snap discreaches 120 degrees, the blower automaticallyturns ON and turns itself OFF if it reaches 90 de-grees. See your Dealer for details or call U.S.Stove directly. |
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